TUTORIAL // GUESS MAKEUP

The beautiful Dimi from Stylescoop asked me to do a tutorial on this look she loved from the Guess Accessories Spring/Summer campaign. It’s tough including everything in one written tutorial (if you want people to read it all) and over the last couple of days, I’ve been thinking of things to add….

FACE

Allow your natural skin and glow to shine through! The foundation is light and well-matched to the skin tone, allowing a natural glow. Using a wet cosmetic sponge, wet Beauty Blender or Stippling brush, apply a light to medium coverage liquid foundation on the face. Great products to use include MAC Face & Body or Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua.

(ADDITIONAL TIPS: Don’t use a stippling brush on dry skin, rather use the wet cosmetic sponge. If you feel that your foundation is too thick, spritz some rosewater on the sponge or stippling brush and use it blend out the foundation further.)

Apply concealer only where needed (under eyes, around the base of the nose, any red areas). This type of look requires a natural skin tone and the final look shouldn’t be too heavy or matte. Great products to use include Bobbi Brown concealer, Clinique eye concealer or Smashbox HD concealer. If you’d like, apply a highlighting concealer under the eyes like YSL Touche Eclat. Use a flat, synthetic brush and your ring finger.

(ADDITIONAL TIPS: If you tend to have oily or combination skin, lightly powder the T-zone with a loose or pressed powder. Chanel have a lovely translucent loose powder, or MAC blot powder or Inglot pressed powder.)

Contour & Highlight using a matte contour powder two shades darker than your natural skin tone and gently contour from just below your temple, under the cheekbone and blend out. Remember this is meant to look like a natural shadow so you shouldn’t see any defined lines or Jersey Shore contours. Also, every contour differs according to the face shape so keep in mind where you should be contouring. Inglot eye-shadows are great for this if you can find the correct matte shade. Use a soft blush or powder brush to apply.

(ADDITIONAL TIPS: You can also use a concealer or cream contour. It lasts a little longer, is more defined but if blended properly can look especially good. Remember with anything cream-based, it needs to be buffed into the skin so that it doesn’t look like it’s “sitting on top” of the skin.)

You can use a shimmery “frosty” coloured eye shadow or a cream highlight on the top of the cheekbone to emphasize the cheeks. This same highlight can be added to the inner corner of the eyes and the bow of the lip. If you want to make your bottom lip appear fuller, add a little highlight to the middle of the lip before lipstick or lip liner. Use your ring finger to apply and blend out the highlighter. Great products include; MAC cream highlighters, Benefit Girl Meets Pearl, Inglot eyeshadow in the right shade.

(ADDITIONAL TIPS:  MAC Improper Copper is an incredible cream highlighter for darker or tanned skin tones. I personally use an Inglot eyeshadow in Pearl 379and I’ve received a ton of comments about it. But I am very fair, just FYI. Also, although Inglot powders have a great pay-off and they blend out well, there tends to be a lot of fall-out so be careful when applying colours….a light touch is needed.)

 

EYES

Using the same powder from contouring, shape the socket of your eye and blend it out and up just a little. Again take care to note the shape of your eyes and what shape works best for you. Apply a pearl or golden shimmer over the eyelid. Use MAC “Indianwood” pot paint for darker skin tones and Estee Lauder ShadowCreme in “Pink Blush” for lighter skin tones.

(ADDITIONAL TIPS: Great brushes for contouring of eyes are MAC 217 or 224 and Smashbox #10 or #15. For all-over eyelid application, a great option is MAC 239. When choosing eyeshadows for this look, it needs to be similar shades to your natural skin tone, the look is defined and polished, and the eyeshadow shouldn’t really be too noticeable or compete with the eyeliner.)

Line your eyes with a black liner, or brown-black for a more subtle look. The line must start thinner at the inner corner and get thicker towards the outer corner of the eye. A sneaky tip to create the “wing” is to use sticky tape at an angle between the outer corner of the bottom lash line and the end of the eyebrow. Use a sharpened eye pencil (MAC “graph black”), liner gel with a small angled brush (Inglot Cream Liners & MAC 266 brush) or a Liner pen (Smashbox eye pen).

(ADDITIONAL TIPS: Liner of this type can be tricky so be patient and practice. Also, remember to lift your eyelid a bit so that you can get the liner right in the lash line. To really define the look and make your lashes look fuller, so you don’t need to hack with fake lashes, tightline your eyes.)

Apply lots of black mascara (after curling lashes) and remember to pull the lashes up and outwards to emphasize the almond shape of the eyes. I love Maybelline Colossal Mascara, Chanel Inimitable Mascara and Dior Show Mascara.

If you feel that the bottom lashes need some attention, use a brown mascara lightly for more definition – but remember that this will close the eyes and make them appear smaller. No eyeliner on the bottom lashes.

(ADDITIONAL TIPS: This look is all about definition on the top of the eye and adding any colour or liner to the bottom lid will pull focus. If you feel you need more definition on the bottom lid or lashes, use brown colour as it will look more subtle)

Fill in your eyebrows using a pencil or matte powder. Don’t change the shape too much or overfill them, just add some subtle definition. Benefit Brow Zings is an amazing little kit!

(ADDITIONAL TIPS: Current trends are moving away from over-arched brows and going towards a fuller, more natural brows. The curve of the brow is more subtle and brows stay thick most of the way.)

LIPS

Use a nude lip liner to shape and fill in your lips (no one has a perfect lip shape and I always cheat the lips a little). Apply a light/sheer nude lipstick with a slight pink undertone (again, this is all about finding the right shade for you). If you’ve highlighted under the lip liner, you shouldn’t need to apply a fussy lipgloss.

(ADDITIONAL TIPS: For fuller, luscious lips, add layers of highlight in between the lip liner and lipstick.  Add a couple of layers of lipstick and highlighter, and really work it into the lips so that it last and lasts….no matter how many kisses!)

So there you have it! Let me know if you have any questions or any other looks you’d like a tutorial for….